The Sweet, Greasy History and Modern Evolution of New Orleans’ Iconic Beignets

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Looking for the best beignets in New Orleans? Pronounced ben-YAY, the term likely traces its linguistic roots back to the Old French word buigne, meaning "lump" to you and me—a fitting nod to the way that yeast dough expands irregularly when dropped into hot oil. The simplicity of the fundamental ingredients—butter, eggs, milk, sugar, flour, and salt—means that many different culinary cultures across the globe have developed some kind of variant of fried dough. Here in New Orleans, however, as with most things rooted in local culture, residents have their own distinctive way of doing things.

Louisiana-style beignets eschew, or if you will, es-choux the original French choux pastry method used in Europe. Instead, they are made from a rich, leavened dough. Yeast puffs them up into hand-sized rectangles, keeping them delightfully crispy on the outside while maintaining an airy, pillowy interior. Culinary tradition dictates that they are best eaten as hot and freshly made as possible. Most vendors dust them with generous, almost overwhelming mounds of powdered sugar, a practical reality that leads to sage advice for any first-time visitor: be sure to wear dark clothing for the full, unbridled experience.

In one of television’s more memorable quotes from the animated show King of the Hill, the show’s eccentric cast of characters finds their capers taking them down to New Orleans. During the episode, the truculent conspiracy theorist Dale Gribble chirps up with characteristic paranoia: "How ’bout I come with? I’ve always wanted to eat fried dough in the most corrupt city on Earth." As a long-time New Orleans transplant, anyone who has lived in the region knows better than to stir up the notoriously colorful local politics. Consequently, one learns to be wary about diving headfirst into the thorny, highly competitive issue of ranking one of the city’s most recognizable and fiercely defended delicacies.

Beignets are serious business in New Orleans. In league with the Boston Cream, it stands as one of only two official State Donuts. Prestige, it turns out, takes many different forms, and Louisianans wear their culinary designations with immense pride. If you know beignets at all, you will likely know Cafe du Monde, an institution that has been operating continuously since its humble beginnings as a modest open-air coffee stand in 1862. Located just a block from the Mississippi River in the historic and bustling French Quarter, its menu has barely changed in well over a century, serving up coffee and fried dough to generations of locals and tourists.

By 1870, Cafe du Monde gained a formidable rival: Morning Call Coffee Stand, which is also still going strong today despite shifting locations over the decades. In the intervening years since those early days, the rise of more cafes and innovative new restaurants means that modern diners now have far more than two choices when a craving strikes. Even more excitingly, they have access to much more than just one traditional type of beignet. Culinary experts and everyday locals alike personally recommend enjoying them as a hearty breakfast paired with a steaming cafe au lait—or perhaps a brandy milk punch, if that happens to be how you choose to live your life—or simply as a comforting mid-afternoon sweet treat. To beat the notoriously long lines at the best beignet spots in town, many savvy visitors head to institutions like Cafe du Monde, which remains open until midnight on weekends, late into the night.

Purists may occasionally rail against new-fangled variations, noting that the border between a traditional beignet and a heavier fritter can sometimes become blurred. Yet, the profound simplicity of the base dough makes this creation an ideal canvas for modern chefs looking to experiment. Glazed, savory, and heavily stuffed versions can now be found tucked away in various neighborhoods around the city. Whether you skew strictly classic or lean toward the innovative side of pastry arts, there is a spot somewhere in the city to suit your specific tastes. For locals and visitors alike, these creations remain—in no particular order—some of the very best beignets in New Orleans, designed for those moments when only hot, sugar-dusted fried dough will truly hit the spot.

Asro

Asro

Content editor and sustainable journalism contributor at GenerateGreen.